Stuck flowers

I have seen many people ask questions on various forums regarding plants with flowers stuck down between the leaves and what they can do to get the flower stem to come up. I have also heard of some very weird and wonderful remedies that are ‘guaranteed’ to bring the flowers up.

This can happen to a plant during normal flowering season but I have found it is more common when a plant is flowering out of season. I don’t worry if I can see buds down between the leaves and they seem to take a while to come up. Some plants are just slower than others at elongating the peduncle, however when the flowers start to open when still down firmly between the leaves, then I take action. I have had a number of plants where the stuck flowers have eventually rotted and caused damage to the crown of the plant.

My solution is quite simple. Give the plant a good watering and bring it into the house where it is warm. The warmth in the house brings the peduncle up quite remarkably. The photo on this page shows a plant that has flowered out of season in the shadehouse. The flowers were opening down between the leaves. The second photo shows the flowers one week later after being in a warm house, and yes, my house is very warm. I do like the heater.

Forget about closing the plant in a dark cupboard, giving it all sorts of chemicals, banana peels, or cutting the head off a chicken and dancing naked at midnight. At the end of the day, I have found the warm house works almost every time. I have only had one plant that the flowers did not come up. Later I realised that I had been too late in bringing the plant in. Rot had already started down in the buds and the damage was already done. I had to cut quite a bit of the crown out to save the plant.

Why do some plants have stuck flowers? I don’t really know. As I have mentioned, it does tend to happen when a plant flowers out of season. A plant may flower normally every year and then one year it will have stuck flowers with no real rhyme or reason for it. Some may say a lack of fertiliser, though I can say that is not the case with my plants.

If your plant has stuck flowers and it is in the garden where you cannot bring it into a warm house, I would suggest keeping a close eye on it. Water tends to gather down between the leaves and contribute to the rot. Sometimes I use clothes pegs to hold the leaves apart as then more air can get to the affected area. If you can see that rot is starting or you are concerned about it as the stem has not come up at all, then cut the buds, flowers and stem out. Make sure you sprinkle Sulphur Powder or Mancozeb on the cut areas to help eliminate fungal problems.

Why won’t my Clivia flower?

This is a question I have heard many times over. It can be frustrating when you have waited and are excited about the flowering season only to find your plant doesn’t flower.

There are so many reasons why a plant does not flower.

Age of the plant

My first question is ‘How old is the plant?’ Often people buy a Clivia seedling at a market or nursery not realising that it can take around five years to reach flowering size. This comes as a shock to those that thought the plant would be fast growing and flower within two years. Some buyers are told that the plant will flower when it reaches 4 years of age, or when it has 11 leaves. This is only a guide and not necessarily accurate. All plants are different and reach maturity at different times. I have had plants flower at 3 – 4 years of age and yet I have other plants that are now 10 years old and I am still waiting. The species, C. nobilis, is notoriously slow to flower often taking more than 10 years.

Health of the plant

With C. miniata, the flower embryo develops around January/February timeframe and the plant flowers in September. If the plant was stressed or was in bad condition around this time, the flower embryo may not develop. Even if the health of the plant improves after this and looks great in September, it may have missed flowering due to its health at that critical time of development.

Clivia love a good fertilisation regularly. Although Clivia in the garden may flower for many years without being fertilised, the flowers do tend to become more scarce and smaller. A good regular fertilisation will keep the plant healthy and producing flowers each year.

Environmental conditions

Clivia are subject to weather conditions like other plants. They need at least 6 weeks of cold weather to flower. After this cold spell, the warming temperatures prompt the plant to commence flowering. Plants that are kept in pots inside a warm house may miss this cold spell and not flower. Best to put an inside plant out on an outside verandah or cold room for a while. In some countries where it is gets to freezing point over winter, growers keep their plants in a basement or garage where it is cool but not freezing.

Clivia can flower at slightly different times each year depending on if we have had a cold winter or a warmish winter. Although most C. miniata flower in September, some are a little slower and may flower in October or November.

The amount of light seems to also be a factor. I have seen a huge array of lovely healthy plants planted in the ground under a forest of tall trees. They rarely flower and I believe it is because it is too dark for them. ‘Bright shade’ is the best.

Often a first time flowering plant will not flower the second year. Perhaps the energy involved in producing the flower and usually berries as well, exhausts the plant. Some growers will not pollinate a first time flower. Every now and again it seems that even a plant that flowers regularly will take a break.


Many people swear by using Potash to promote flowering. I have tried Potash for the last few years, just a small amount sprinkled around the plant and then watered in. Knowing the flower embryo develops around January/February, I use the Potash in November/December. I cannot say whether it has worked or not. Some plants have flowered when I didn’t think they would but others that I felt should have flowered, did not. I will keep using the Potash as it can’t do any harm and anything that may help flowers to develop sounds like a good idea to me.

Germinating clivia seeds

There are so many different methods of germinating Clivia seeds and I have probably tried most of them over the years. Everything from putting the seeds in a Chinese take-away container with sphagnum moss, placing them in a plastic bag with sphagnum moss to adding a dome or cover on top of the seed tray to create a mini-greenhouse effect. I have even tried leaving the seeds in a glass of water to see if they would germinate at some expert’s suggestion.

There is no right or wrong way of germinating seeds. Some methods work well for some people and the best thing is to stick to what works for you.

What I will outline here is a very simple method that works well and is easily achievable for the layman.

Do I need to wash or soak the seeds when I receive them?

Growers generally wash the seeds when they are peeling them from the berries. In most cases this is with a dish washing liquid that does have some anti-bacterial properties. The seeds should be clean and free of any membrane material or dirt when you receive them. I do wash any seeds I receive from other growers in water with dish washing liquid added. This ensures that I am starting with clean seed as often international seed has been rolled in Sulphur Powder which tends to sting the eyes and taste revolting if it get on your hands and eventually your mouth.

Years ago I used to soak seed for 24 hours in either diluted bleach, Super Thrive or HB101 but at the end of the day, I don’t believe it made any difference to the germination of the seed. As long as the seed is fresh and clean, it does not need to be soaked. I have at times received shrivelled up seed and have soaked it in water to see if it improved the outcome but I think that was wishful thinking.

What is an easy way of germinating Clivia seeds?

Fill a small pot with seed raising mix which is easily available at Bunnings or possibly your supermarket. You can also use potting mix or a number of other types of medium, but I have found seedlings do well in seed raising mix.

Wet the mix thoroughly and place the seeds on the top of the mix. Do not bury the seeds. They are happy sitting on the top. You will notice on each seed there is a small raised bump. This is where the radicle will grow out and hopefully downward. Sometimes it is necessary to gently turn the seed over once germination has happened so the root grows down into the mix.

Place the pot in a warm position but not in direct sunlight. Keep a water spray bottle handy and each day give the seeds a little spray. They like to be a little damp but not too wet as this will encourage rot. Germination should happen within a few weeks.

This method allows air flow around the seeds and lessens the chances of fungus, mould and rot.

If you see small flying insects hanging around the pot, spray with Pyrethrum. These could possibly be Fungus Gnats which will harm the health of your sprouting seeds or seedlings.

Do I need to use a heat mat?

Years ago people used to place the seed trays on top of the fridge as they received bottom heat from the old fridges, but I believe new fridges are different now and these days, they are built in to cabinets. Heat mats or bottom heat certainly speeds up the germination process but is not necessary.

I use heat mats which can be purchased online for around $50 each as I have so many seeds to germinate each year that they have to queue up to get on the seed trays. By speeding up the germination process, I can get through the germinating process in half the time it would have taken without heat.

If you are not in a hurry then there is no need to buy a heat mat.

What happens after the seeds have germinated?

After germination a root will grow down into the mix. Sometimes it may be necessary to poke a little hole in the mix with your finger and gently place the root into it if the root is growing sidewards. The roots need to be kept a little damp and not dry out. When they are growing out of the mix, they can dry out easily.

Soon after you will see a small green leaf developing. All going well there is no need to do anything other than keep them a little damp by watering the pot thoroughly once per week. If you think the mix is drying out too fast for the one week watering, then water as often as you think is needed to keep them a little damp but not wet.


Growing Clivia from seed can be a fun and fascinating road of discovery. Each different cross can be so variable and the bad news is, it is an addiction without a cure.

Clivia colours and crosses

Colours with Clivia and breeding for colour has always been a controversial topic and continues to be. Many can’t even agree on the same terminology for colours, and there are many opinions on what the outcome of certain colour combinations will be. These notes are based on my own observations and notes from fellow growers. We will not delve into the scientific reasons for colours or in-depth genetic possibilities. I have also not gone into great details regarding green-throats, white-throats, picotee, splash, bi-colours and a few others. Time for that in another post.


Orange is the dominant colour in Clivia and most crosses involving an orange parent will result in orange offspring. With crossing an orange with a yellow there are three potential outcomes:

  1. All offspring will be orange.
  2. If the orange parent had a yellow parent, then approximately 25% of the offspring will be yellow and the remainder will be orange.
  3. There is also a possibility of the yellow diluting the orange to a certain degree and result in some pastels.

A pigmented based seedling will most likely flower orange or a shade of orange.

Group 1 Yellow

In my experience, breeding a yellow with a yellow will always result in yellow offspring. I have heard discussions from several growers who say that yellow crossed with yellow can breed orange until there have been seven generations of pure yellow breeding, but there is also the possibility that any pigmented based seedlings are the result of stray pollen.

A non-pigmented based seedling of yellow breeding will flower yellow. See also Group 2 Yellow.


Pastel is a colour that can have a wide range of possibilities, with anything from a light pinkish colour and apricot through to salmon and a darker pink. They are all a form of orange dilution and many pastels are a result of crossing with a yellow. Crossing a pastel with another pastel can result in orange offspring, possibly pastels and often yellows if the pastels have a yellow gene each. Likewise crossing a pastel to a yellow can result in orange, pastel and yellow offspring.

No one can guarantee a young seedling will flower pastel as it is too variable. If the seedling has a pigmented base then the flower colour may be pastel, or could well be orange.


There are two types of peaches that behave differently with breeding so to simplify it, I will call this one the African peach and the other, the European peach. The African peach is the more common of the two in the general gardening population and less expensive.

This peach has a non-pigmented base as a seedling. The flower colour can vary from a very pale, almost yellow peach through to a dark, rich peach colour. Breeding peach to peach should result in peach, however, if both of the peach parents have a yellow gene then there is a 25% chance of the offspring flowering yellow. Peach is dominant over yellow so many peaches have been crossed with yellow to improve the flower shape and form. This means that there are a lot of peaches out in the gardening world that have a yellow gene.

European Peach

The European peach is different to the African peach in many ways. It may have a pigmented or non-pigmented base as a seedling though I would worry if I saw a very dark pigment as I would expect the plant to flower orange. It demonstrates ‘bleeding’ on the petals if there is any damage to the flower. Often the flower is more of a tulip or cup shape than the African peach. It is NOT compatible with a yellow plant and will breed 100% orange offspring if crossed with a yellow. It is also not compatible with the African peach and will produce orange offspring. Crossing a European peach to another European peach should ensure the offspring are all European peaches. Having said that, I have had plants flower orange that were supposed to be European peach. As the seed came from other sources, it is possible that stray pollen was involved.

Group 2 Yellow

A Group 2 Yellow plant behaves differently to a Group 1 Yellow. The most common yellow seen in Australia is the Group 1 yellow.

The Group 2 Yellow bleeds on the petals if they are damaged and is only compatible with other Group 2 Yellow plants. This includes the very green flowers like ‘Hirao’ which appears to be green but is still classed as a Group 2 Yellow.

A Group 2 Yellow seedling will have a non-pigmented base.


A Ghost can be a wide range of colours and exhibits patches on its petals that have a ghosting or watercolour effect. A Ghost can also be known as a parti-colour or water-colour. There are cases where a ghost has resulted unexpectedly from crossing an orange or pastel to a yellow.

Many ghosts carry a yellow gene so there is a possibility of yellow offspring if selfing a ghost, crossing with another ghost, or breeding to a yellow. No one can guarantee a seedling will flower with ghosting characteristics.


Officially there is no such thing as a red Clivia. All Clivia referred to as red are actually dark orange. Many dark orange flowers appear to look red as the flower ages. Some flowers do actually open with what appears to be red flowers though they are very dark orange.


There are no white Clivia flowers. Yellow can have a wide range of depth to the colour. Some yellow flowers are a deep buttercup yellow and there are many that are a very light cream colour with all hues in between.


A bronze can be a very dark orange/brownish colour and always with a degree of green in the throat or on the outside of the petals. The dark orange with green gives the bronze colouring. Breeding a bronze to a bronze does not necessarily mean the offspring will be bronze. We hope for bronze but also realise that a percentage may be orange.

There have been some lovely flowers that are the result of crossing colours. Bronze is often crossed with a Group 2 Yellow and there are many lovely bronze offspring from this cross. If the bronze has a Group 2 Yellow gene then there is also the possibility of a percentage of Group 2 Yellow progeny. Pastel has been crossed with a Group 2 Yellow and produced some lovely pastels with green throats.

Be careful if buying for colour. It is best to buy a plant that has already flowered or an offset from a plant as you know you are getting what you want. A seedling is always a risk. I have seen more than one large mail-order organisation guarantee a seedling will flower pastel, or red or ghost. As Clivia can take around five years to flower, it is a long time to wait and find out your plant is an orange. I have also seen Clivia advertised as ‘red’ or ‘white’ which is misleading and seedlings advertised as peach pastel. As peach and pastel are two very different colour types, one with a pigmented base and one without, then I have to wonder what these seedlings actually are.

It depends on the breeding aim as to what to cross with what. It is nice to have an outstanding coloured flower but the flower shape and form is more important.

Cultivation basics for garden


Clivia are happy in the garden in a well-lit shaded position. They can tolerate morning sun or filtered light but will burn in full sun. Planting them in a very dark area of the garden may result in a lack of flowering as they need light in order to produce flowers. Often people plant them under a deciduous tree and this is fine provided they do not get too much sun when the tree is bare, or are exposed to frost. Clivia do not handle frost and will end up with damaged leaves or worse.


They can be planted any time of the year but best to avoid extreme days where frost is expected, storms or very high temperatures. Plants from Clivia Market have been grown in shade houses that are not heated so there is no need for them to acclimatise. Very young seedlings can be fragile and are best kept in a pot until at least 2 years of age (around 5 leaves). It is recommended that seedlings in particular are staked to help them to establish. A bamboo stake and soft ties are easy to remove in the future when the plant is established. This can be determined by gently rocking the base of the plant. If there is movement, then the plant has not established yet. If the plant feels like it is not moving, then the stake and tie can be removed.

Soil and watering

Clivia need a well-drained medium where the water will drain away from the roots of the plant. Sitting in wet or soggy soil will result in root rot and the plant ‘falling over’. Clivia are better kept on the dry side than too wet. Adding coarse orchid mix to the soil around the plant when planting can help to prevent the plant sitting in wet soil.

Always water the Clivia in when first planted (Seasol is a good tonic for newly planted Clivia). Once established, Clivia in the garden barely need any water. They can survive easily on the natural rain fall. In summer they will benefit from weekly watering if there is insufficient rain. Younger seedlings may require more regular watering than mature plants. If the plants are in an under-cover area, they may need the occasional water over winter and weekly water over summer.


Clivia love being fertilised and will produce darker green leaves and better flowerings when fertilised. It also assists them in fighting off diseases or pests when they are strong and healthy. A slow-release fertiliser is recommended such as Osmocote. The occasional drink from a watering can of a diluted liquid fertiliser, such as Thrive, Charlie Carp etc. also helps. The only fertiliser I would not use on a mature plant is one very high in nitrogen as it will promote leaf growth rather than flowering.

Pests and diseases

The biggest enemy of the Clivia gardener is the mealy bug. They will strike whether the plant is in the garden or a pot. Often the damage is done before they are discovered. These pests are small white bugs with a tail and can be seen on the underside of leaves or in-between leaves along with white cotton-wool looking material. The mealy bugs bite into the leaves and fungus can then get into where the leaves have been bitten. Damage can be extensive if left untreated and possibly result in the plant dying. Mealy bug can be treated with Eco-oil or Eco-neem by diluting to the stated ratio and spraying with small or large spray bottle, depending on the amount of Clivia you have. Always spray under the leaves, between the leaves and around the soil at the base of the plant. You will need to spray again in 2 weeks. A good rule of thumb is to spray plants in warmer months as a preventative measure.

If using Confidor to treat mealy bug, it is best to buy the sachets or concentrate and mix up the dosage rather than buy the pre-mixed spray bottle. The pre-mixed spray bottle does kill mealy bug but not the long-tail mealy bug that attack Clivia. The dose needs to be stronger than the pre-mix. After a few weeks of spraying, it is a good idea to wipe down the leaves removing any white material and squashing any bugs you find.

Snails and slugs like to eat leaves and particularly like to eat the flowers. I have not had a problem at my property with snails but have seen slugs occasionally in the shade houses. I have used an old treatment of a plastic container (Chinese take-away) with good size holes drilled into the sides. This is filled with beer and I have had success with slugs drowning in the beer. Obviously this would not work for snails unless the holes were much bigger perhaps.

I also occasionally see ear-wigs between the leaves that bite into the leaves and cause damage. The treatment for mealy bug (Eco-oil, Eco-neem or Confidor) will take care of the ear-wigs as well.


Other Clivia problems include crown rot and root rot. Root rot as mentioned earlier, is usually caused by the plant sitting in a soggy medium and not draining well. Symptoms of root rot include yellowing leaves, plant leaning, plant loose in the ground and plant falling over. The treatment is to take the plant out of the ground, remove all soft and rotted material from the roots and base, even if it means there are no roots left. Cover the base and roots with Sulphur Powder or Mancozeb (both available at Bunnings). Do not plant the Clivia back into the same soil. Remove the affected soil as there most likely will be rotted roots and fungal spores in the position where the plant was. If you can, place the plant in a different location or a pot for a while. If you must use the same position, remove affected soil and place some coarse orchid bark in the position to help keep the plant from becoming soggy. The plant will need to be staked until roots establish and kept as dry as possible.

Crown rot is when rot develops on the top of the plant between the leaves. This can be caused by bug damage or water damage from a tree above. All affected leaves need to be removed and all soft and rotted material needs to be cut off the plant. Sulphur Powder or Mancozeb should be applied to the affected area. Mancozeb can be made into a paste with a little bit of water and painted on with a small brush. The plant needs to be kept dry if possible. Depending on how far the rot penetrated the crown of the plant, it is possible that new offsets may develop all around the plant and the mother plant may cease to grow again. This is not the end of the world. One plant may suddenly become six plants. You just have to be patient and realise it may not look as good for a while.


Generally, Clivia will flower around 5 years of age with around 12+ leaves. Miniata flower in Spring (September) but may flower out of season now and again. A flower spike develops down between the leaves around July/August and may become damaged if hit by heavy rains or hail. The flowers will be open for a few weeks and may be pollinated by bees or other insects. If pollinated, berries will form that are green until they are ripe around June/July. When ripe, orange flowers will have red berries, yellow flowers will have yellow berries and peach flowers will have peach berries.

Reasons for plant not flowering:

  • Plant is too young
  • Plant was under stress at the time the flower embryo should form (January- – February)
  • Plant is in a location that is too dark
  • Plant is not healthy (has rot, insect infestation, needs water or fertiliser)
  • Plant produced many flower heads and berries the year before and is recovering
  • Plant did not get cold enough over winter. Clivia need 6 weeks of cold temperatures in order to flower in Spring. Plants kept in pots in the house may not flower if kept warm over winter
  • Sometimes we cannot determine a reason.

Orange is the new black

The chances are that the Clivia that hooked you and turned you into an obsessive enthusiast was orange. I know my one was. I didn’t even know there were other colours. I just saw this orange Clivia miniata flowering and thought it was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen. I was determined to own one. I went onto ebay and bought an orange Clivia and was a bit shocked when it turned up in the mail. The seller had cut off all the roots and all the leaves. It looked like a stick of celery. Obviously the seller did not know anything about Clivia and thought it was like an Iris where it is ok to cut off all extremities. I planted the poor thing and it still managed to flower a month later. The flower embryo would have developed prior to the butchery the plant endured.

As I gradually become aware that there were other colours, I just had to have one of each. I went crazy on ebay and bought as many different types and colours as I could, and I am sure other enthusiasts can relate to this.

My favourite colour kept changing from yellow to peach to ghost to appleblossom to bi-colour to green and so on.

It wasn’t until many years later and a few thousand Clivia plants in the shadehouse later that I stopped and thought seriously about what I really like. At the end of the day, all these other colours are rare, attractive and desirable without doubt, but I realised that it is the shape and form of a flower that makes it beautiful and not necessarily the colour.

When you walk around a Clivia show or Expo, the plants that attract you are the ones with large soccer ball heads of flowers, huge flowers and often with recurved petals. Of course everyone has their own preferences regarding the shape of the flowers.

There is nothing more beautiful than a huge plant with a strong, tall peduncle of flowers on a soccer ball head. I have always joked that my ideal flower is one where I could pull off a flower, turn it upside down and put it on my head like a hat. Somehow it seems that most of these vigorous and lovely plants are orange. That should be no surprise, orange is a dominant colour in Clivia.

A garden full of vivid orange Clivia flowering is a beautiful sight. Orange and yellow planted together is lovely with the contrast yet a garden full of just yellows can actually look a bit insipid.

I have a number of beautiful large orange plants in my collection that I find really breathtaking when they flower.

Seed lists

Every year the seed lists seem to come out earlier and earlier. It is almost like a competition to see who can get their list out the fastest. Why does this occur?

When the seed lists come out, we all get a bit excited and order copious amounts of seeds. Then another comes out and we are still excited and order. Gradually by the time the seed is actually ready to harvest, we are all ordered out and have spent too much money so don’t order anymore. The late seed lists miss out. The earlier seed list is the best marketing ploy and attract those in a seed-drought and are ready to order and spend money.

There is nothing wrong with having an early seed list, but potential buyers should be aware that it is easy to fall in love with the beautiful photos of parent plants and the excitement of ordering seed, particularly international seed. Often the description offered by the seller is less than adequate and the two lovely photos we fell in love with may result in a quite ordinary flower five years later. If the expected outcome is not stated, it can’t hurt to ask the seller what they expect from the cross. You may also have to wait for up to 6 months from when you paid for your order for the seeds to arrive.

A few tips with reading seed lists and ordering seeds

  • – Early seed lists are generally pre-ordering where the order happens from January and the seeds will not be harvested until June/July (for Australia and South Africa). This is quite common and has its advantages for the seller and buyer. Usually payment is required in advance though some just ask for a deposit.
  • – If ordering from overseas, be aware that Australia has certain requirements. If I am ordering from a smaller grower I will let the grower know our requirements just in case they are not aware or have forgotten. Clivia seeds are allowed into Australia by post but must have ‘CLEANED CLIVIA MINIATA SEEDS’ clearly written on the outside of the package, as well as on each individual package of seeds. I have had seeds confiscated by Customs where each individual seed packet had the cross listed but not ‘CLEANED CLIVIA MINIATA SEEDS’. As it may take a few weeks in the mail, it is preferable to have a small piece of absorbent paper in the seed packets. Some countries dip the seeds in Sulphur Powder to help protect them.
  • – Also keep note of the exchange rate if ordering from overseas. At the moment (February 2015) the Australian dollar is only worth 0.77 cents to the US dollar. So if you buy a seed from the US for $8. It actually costs $10.30 in Australian dollars plus postage.
  • – Not all seed will germinate for whatever reason, so when ordering, assume that some may not sprout and order enough for this possibility. Some sellers are generous and add a few extra seeds should this happen, but many don’t.
  • – If it is an international seed list, check the postage. Most sellers offer reasonable postage rates to send overseas but I have come across a few that offer outrageous postal costs as they include administration costs and handling fees. This can make the seeds end up very expensive.
  • – Check the quantity and crosses of seed when they arrive. I have had parcels arrive that have all the wrong seeds (someone else’s order), half the order missing (where I had to pay postage for a second time from overseas) and seed arrive that is brown and mouldy.
  • – Be aware that mistakes can happen. Even the most careful of growers may find that a stray bee has pollinated a flower before they had the chance to. I have many seedlings that on the breeding should have had non-pigmented bases and yet they are pigmented and will most likely flower orange. There is always a risk when buying seed.

Buying seeds in a risky business but also an exciting time. They could potentially grow into a beautiful flower and although many plants will flower ordinary, there is the possibility of some outstanding outcomes.


Postal charges to rise

Australia Post has announced that the postal charge for domestic parcels over 500g will rise as of the 2nd March 2015.

How does that affect us?

It will not affect seed deliveries as they weight well under 500g nor will it affect seedlings that can fit in a small box or medium sized postal tube. It will affect postage on mature plants as they generally weight around 1kg and it will affect larger seedlings that weigh over 500g.

What are the new charges?

The new charges are made up of:

  1.        A basic charge – $10.05 for destinations in the same state and $12.85 for interstate destinations PLUS
  2.        Distance charge per kg.

A box of 3 mature plants weighing 3kg travelling from Clivia Market to Brisbane will cost $12.85 PLUS $1.45 x 3 = $.4.35. Total price $17.20.

The following link is the Australia Post list of charges per state and zones within Australia –

How do we work out the postage for plants on Clivia Market?

We have recently implemented a new module to the checkout on Clivia Market that returns the costs in real-time from Australia Post. This means that based on the dimensions and weight of a plant or plants in your shopping cart, your postcode, and that the parcel will be sent from Lilydale in Victoria, the software works out the postage and displays it to you. It also displays a few options that you may wish to choose including Express Post, Signature on Delivery etc.

Are there any additional charges for packaging or handling?

We do not charge any handling fees nor do we charge for the small boxes, custom boxes or postal tubes used to send plants out.


New website launch

The new look website for Clivia Market is finally live.

What began as a Paypal error when trying to make payments, ended up a full software upgrade, new hosting provider, new website design and a never ending amount of problems.

Fingers are crossed that we have ironed out all bugs and problems, but please do let me know if you encounter anything amiss during your visit. This website will continue to be a work in progress for some time to come.

All visitors who have registered on the website prior to the upgrade will need to reset your password. This is a simple process. Just go to the Forgot Password link and enter your email address. A password will be emailed to you. You can then login and change your password to your own choice. My apologies for this but it seemed the safest way to move passwords from one server to another. This is the link to reset your password –

Let’s hope there are no more software upgrades for some time to come.

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